Friday, April 29, 2011

Kuttanad, a weeping beauty

 

Kuttanad near Alleppey in Kerala is a fascinatingly beautiful area. It provides 40% of Kerala’s paddy production and has tremendous tourism potential that includes excellent cuisine. (The visitors are unaware that the water is awfully polluted but anyway they use packaged pure water.)

It is only the second place in the world where large scale cultivation is done below sea level. The Government of India has sanctioned for the all round development of the area a Rs.1840 crores Kuttanad Package conceived by the world famous agricultural scientist Dr. MS Swaminathan who is a native of the place. 

The original area under paddy cultivation in Kuttanad was 55,000 hectares but due to various reasons it is only 37,000 hectares now. It is all part of a continuing tragic story. This year a good crop was ready to be harvested but summer rains came and washed out large areas.

The natural question is why the harvest not done in time. No labor. But this is the 21st century. Machines do harvesting. Sorry, Kerala does not have such machines. We get them from neighboring states when their harvesting season does not clash with ours like this year. Even when they are available rent has to be paid, there are agent’s fees and finally the local politicians reportedly take their cut for allowing priority in usage.


You can have the best of schemes and all the money needed but there have to be committed people to do the work under committed people who allow them to work. But in Kerala who bothers? If something goes wrong blame the Central Government and hold bandhs. Or let the machines (when bought) go to rot. Some time back the Kerala Police got a few most modern boats to fight smuggling and seaborne terrorism. You can see them tied to the piers. They have not been used. Nobody knows how to.

Before the land limitation laws came in 1970, Kuttanad had families who owned hundreds or even thousands of hectares of land. It was the owner’s responsibility to ensure regular cultivation. People from almost the entire district came for the harvests. But quite often the crops failed. The landowners had to borrow money for the next season. Many a famous Kuttanad family were indebted almost continuously to a particular money lending family.

Now there is an interesting change. The land owners do not directly cultivate any more. They lease the fields on seasonal basis to others, mostly agricultural workers. The rent is collected in advance. If a crop fails the landowner loses nothing. The tears that follow are that of the poor agricultural worker. Some people have formed associations for combined operations, but it is not easy for them to keep fighting the powerful trade unions and the elements.

Kerala Leftists fought the introduction of tractors, mechanization of coir factories, and even the use of computers by the Government. That kind of negative approach has done enough harm to Kerala in many ways. How much hold will they have over the Kuttanad Package? Why blame the Reds alone. There are others also who can make the scheme a mess.

There is something that the users, trade unions and responsible government officials have to be alert about. I understand that the charge for harvesters (as and when available) is per working hour. This leaves a huge potential for corruption. Part of the working time is recorded as “breakdown”. The “ghost money” would be shared. Another method, where the user loses, is spare parts money. The classic one is ‘Go buy a new one, or I can repair if you pay.” I know a couple of such cases..

I am shocked to learn that Kuttanad is earning names like ‘poison bowl’ and ‘drowning granary’ in the media and studies.

We must save this beautiful land.

Also read Kerala: Left with empty granaries written two years ago.

Photos: Wikimedia Commons. Click to enlarge

Saturday, April 23, 2011

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Back to nalukettus?


The revival of interest in the old Kerala style nalukettu houses (structure on all four sides around an open space called nadumuttam in the middle) is quite amazing. I had posted several articles and photos on the subject and they still draw many visitors. That must be so too for other bloggers who also handle the subject, and for architects. 

Two of my popular articles on nalukettu are, I think,


 
This is Thekkanatt at Olavipe one of the five existing Parayil Tharakan Heritage Homes, Cherthala Thaluk. The other four are larger, older and ettukettus. In this building the single storied portion is the nalukettu. The second picture is of the eastern veranda of the nalukettu where local women normally come to meet the ladies of the house.

Anyone planning to built a nalukettu should first understand that this type of houses were meant for a different era, diverse lifestyle and a social system that was so contrasting to what we have today. Only people of a certain status could build a nalukettu, ettukettu and pathinarukettu. There were even rules about who could enter the house and which part.

  


 
Even within the family normally the women dominated the nalukettu side while the front area was for the men. They were meant for large families to live in with an army of servants to support them, starting at dawn with ‘muttamadi’ (sweeping the compound). They are so far removed from the nuclear houses we see mostly now.

Are large buildings with nalukettus going to be part of the changing scenario? Even if you build one of them, where would you get the employees for the upkeep? The solution is to have scaled down, space fully utilized structures, a kind of fusion of the old and the new. This requires quality architects.

Size of the nadumuttam would have a considerable effect on the cost of the house. The bigger the inner court, the larger would be the built up area around it and therefore the cost. Start with a reasonably sized open space in the centre and start planning around. Depending on the size of the nadumuttam (open space within the building) the built area and therefore the cost would be more.

How many bedrooms on the same level can you have in a nalukettu? You can have normally two, three or four. The design possibilities are many depending on the money you are willing to spend, the land you have and the conveniences you want.

Recently I stayed in the modified portion of an old nalukettu for a few days. The ambiance was beautiful. I simply had to congratulate the young lady architect who did the work.

I have seen advertisements of individual villas/gated communities of nalukettus. Wonder how they are to live in.


(Photos copyright reserved. Click to enlarge.)








Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Vishu Greetings



 Wishing you all happiness, health and prosperity for this VISHU.

 Kani Konna (Golden Shower or cassia fistula) is the symbol of VISHU, one of Kerala’s important festivals. This beautiful photograph of a floret of Kani Konna is by Jim Conrad

Suggest also read


Tuesday, March 22, 2011

A tsunami story

[I wrote this short story just after the tsunami in 2004. It was well received. I am re- publishing it in the context of the Japanese tragedy.]

Songs of the sea

The little girl wearing a faded green dress sat alone on the deserted beach, a few feet away from the waterline, looking westward and waiting. She tried to flatten her hair that tossed about in the strong evening breeze with her hands but the strands wouldn’t stay back.

The sun was setting against a dull, cloudless sky. Waves rolled in with foam on their crests. Some new, colorful fishing boats along with older ones were out in the distance on their way back home. Birds flew around looking for prey before returning to their nesting places. But the girl was not concerned with the details. She was watching the vast expanse of the Arabian Sea. Somewhere under that water mass was the Palace of Kadalamma, the Mother Goddess of all oceans and fisher folk.

Occasionally there was talk about the waves striking again. But the girl was not afraid. After they shifted to a small new cottage beside the beach, she went to the seashore every evening all by herself. It had become a routine. Sometimes when she was tired of sitting up, she would lie on the sand. Often she dropped off to sleep and had dreams that were mostly pleasant.

She loved Kadalamma in spite of what had happened. Her grandmother had told her so many stories about the great ocean goddess who was kind, loving, and caring. It was only when her subjects broke her laws that Kadalamma became angry. And once that happened, the goddess was blind and raving mad. Someone somewhere would have breached the rules. That was why Kadalamma had sent those huge waves of destruction.

One of her grandma’s stories warned that if a fisher woman went astray Kadalamma would take her husband away. The old lady had a song for it. She had songs for most of her yarns. She would sing exposing the few teeth she still had, clapping her hands in rhythm and then give the narration.
The girl didn’t know what ‘astray’ meant and guessed that it was something not good. But she couldn’t understand why the innocent man was taken away? May be it was to save him from the shame of his wife turning bad and the troubles of the world. People were always talking about problems and difficulties.

Many of granny’s other tales though, were of men who braved angry seas and fought giant sharks and returned victoriously to become heroes. And they lived on. Strange were the ways of the grown-ups, the girl thought. When she asked her grandmother about it, there was a ready answer – the actions of bad people sometimes caused loss and hurt to good people as well.

Granny was away at the girl’s uncle’s place in land when the sea attacked. Her father had gone there to bring back the old woman. They had not seen Kadalamma’s fury. But the girl had, and remembered every little detail till she become unconscious during the rage of the waves.

When she opened her eyes again sometime in the night, she was lying on a bench in the partially damaged schoolhouse near their hamlet and a tired-looking doctor was examining her. Her father was back. He stood nearby with tearful eyes, along with other people. Someone was describing how she was found trapped among the fronds of a fallen coconut palm.

She looked around and whispered, “Amma”.

Nobody answered. Father told her later that they were searching for Amma and other missing persons. Hope lingered for a few days and slowly turned to numb acceptance. The girl couldn’t even cry.

They were housed in a crowded temporary shed after the tragedy. The girl didn’t like the place or the people there and kept aloof even from children of her age group. Some called her dumb because she hardly talked. Initially, food was scarce. Fisher folk were used to that during times of poor catches or when the men were careless with money. Then supplies started coming in regularly. The first lot of old clothes distributed to them were the type the sahibs wore, thick and warm. Those were taken back and lighter garments were brought. The girl got three dresses. One was slightly torn and another a bit too large, but they were all nice.

Everyone was talking about tsunami all the time. It sounded like a girl’s name. However the she realized soon that it referred to the disaster that had ravaged their hamlet and had left a strange impact on the victims. People were grumpy and very irritable. They fought amongst them even over small things and always blamed government. She too was angry.

Then, one day, she got to see government.

He came in a big, fat car accompanied by others in several vehicles, and Jeep-loads of policemen. Initially the girl was a little afraid but forced herself to look. Government was an elderly person with tousled hair and seemed like other men. His name was Chief Minister. He listened to complaints of the inmates, talked to important-looking people, and gave a speech.

The girl didn’t understand what was said. But after Government left, the grown-ups argued as usual. Some said that they would get new houses and boats soon. Others were doubtful. Many felt that people with Government would cheat the poor fishermen and make money for themselves. Her father kept out of such discussions. He was always sad and quiet. She felt sorry for him. She knew that he had loved Amma very much even though sometimes he used to fight with her. Men were like that.

One night the girl saw the waves again in her sleep and woke up crying. She couldn’t stop. Some of the people in the camp cursed loudly because they were angry at being disturbed in their sleep. That hurt more and she wailed louder. Father carried her outside and they spent the rest of the night on the moon-washed sands.

By morning the girl had high fever and started vomiting. The doctor said that it was partially a delayed effect of the trauma caused by the tsunami and needed expert treatment. He sent them to a large hospital run by nuns in the nearby town.

They were directed to a doctor who attended to tsunami related cases. The lady faintly resembled Amma. She wore a white coat over a pink sari, and smelt of jasmine. The girl secretly named her ‘Jasmine doctor’.

“What’s your name?” the doctor asked.

“Parvathy,” the girl answered. “Amma used to call me Paru.”

“Shall I also call you Paru?”

“Yes,” the girl said with a shy smile.

After examining the girl and asking questions, the doctor said, “You’re fine, Paru. Only a little frightened inside. We’ll remove that fear.”

The doctor went to the refugee camp frequently and took Paru for long walks along the beach. They talked a great deal, told stories, and played games.

One day the girl asked the doctor abruptly, “Have you ever played chasing crabs?”

“No. What sort of game is that?”

“You find little pinkish crabs on the seashore. Go near them and they start running. You run after them. It’s very exciting.”

“Well,” the doctor said, “I missed the fun. There were no crabs where I grew up. But why did you ask?”

Paru suddenly burst out crying. The doctor knelt beside her on the beach and hugged her. After a while she asked, “Paru, what’s the matter?”

“Amma died,” the girl replied between sobs, “because of me.”

The doctor hugged her again, gave her a gentle kiss, and said, “I’m sure that you’re wrong.”

“No, it’s true.”

“Would you care to talk about it?”

The girl nodded.

On the day of the waves, Paru said, she was walking back from the local shop with Amma around noon, carrying Dolly, her plastic baby. She wanted to chase crabs. That was something they did together often. Amma told her that it was too hot for the crabs to be out. But the daughter ran to the shore anyway and was surprised to find several of the little creatures moving around frantically. She called her mother who was waiting by the shade of a coconut palm at the edge of the sands.

Amma came out to the beach. She looked concerned when she saw the frenzied crabs.

It was then that they heard the roar like a thousand motorboats racing together. Amma looked towards the sea once, lifted Paru and ran, her blue and white checked dhoti flapping about. She did not scream or shout for help but sprinted with all the speed she could muster.

But not fast enough.

When they reached the coconut grove the gushing waves overtook. The last thing Paru remembered before becoming unconscious was Amma trying desperately to reach her in the swirling waters and Dolly drifting away.

The girl told the doctor between sobs that if she hadn’t stopped for chasing crabs they would have been safely home.

“My dear child,” the doctor said gently, “you’re wrong. Your house too was washed away.”

That was true, Paru thought.

After months at the camp Paru and her father shifted to one of the few identical little houses that were newly built near the beach for the tsunami victims by some good people. Father said that it was theirs. Others who weren’t so lucky complained that Government wasn’t doing anything. There were protest marches and slogan shouting. The girl didn’t care. Now they had a home again.

Jasmine doctor had come to see them off to the new place. As they were leaving she had told the girl, “Paru, you’re a good girl. You are all right now. Look after yourself and your father.”

Shortly after they moved to their new abode, grandma joined them. The old lady told the little girl that she shouldn’t worry. Kadalamma wanted Amma at her Palace and had called her. She was happy there and would come to see Paru one-day.

And the girl waited.

She would look towards the sea often during the day though the glare hurt the eyes, and went to the beach every evening. It was good that she hadn’t started school yet, she thought. Otherwise, when Amma came she might be away in class.

Her one great worry was whether Amma would get sick, being wet in the sea because Kadalamma’s Palace was underwater. Grandma said no. Would Amma stay when she came? No, she would have to go back. That was the rule. In the end everybody returned to Kadalamma’s castle, which was the real home. It had different tiers. The sinners and the bad people would be at the lowest, in the muddy filth of the ocean floor. Forever. Slimy snakes and fearsome fishes and craggy crabs would keep on nibbling at them. They would freeze and thaw, freeze and thaw, as the water temperature changed. That was bad enough, but knowing that it was coming, the wait for it, made them even more miserable.

It was frightening. Clutching grandma, Paru resolved silently that she would always be good. She wanted to be on the upper levels of Kadalamma’s Palace where Amma surely would be. That was the place for good people. Grandma wouldn’t describe those parts of the castle except saying that they were beautiful beyond words. That didn’t make a picture in the mind. May be that was one thing the old lady didn’t know.

That evening, after sitting up on the sands for some time, Paru lay down. The breeze had softened and caressed her hair gently. It felt nice and she drifted off to sleep.

Then her mother came.

Amma rose from the water suddenly and rushed to the shore where the daughter was. She looked more beautiful than she was when the waves took her. Paru ran forward. Amma lifted her, held her against the bosom and whirled around like a top. Amma’s clothes were dry even though she had just come out of the sea.

They sat on the sand and talked. There was so much to tell each other. The girl gave details of the camp and the problems they had to face. She described the new house. Even now they had no money because the fish catches were poor. Father was always sad and silent. The mother explained that one had to be patient and bear the difficulties. She said that the situation would improve. Kadalamma was rearing large schools of fishes to be sent out to the sea for her sons to catch. The beach would soon see days of plenty.

Paru wanted to hear the song, which Amma had sung to put her to sleep on the night before the tsunami. It was about men venturing out to the endless sea on catamarans and women waiting anxiously beside wick lamps in windswept huts praying for the safe return of their husbands. Amma’s beautiful voice rose once again over the murmur of the waves. It lingered in the air briefly and faded away.

The mother described Kadalamma’s Palace. It was made of innumerable types of seashells and pearls of sizes that ranged from little beads to huge boulders. The garden around the building had corals of different colours and lovely plants that swayed with the currents. Pretty fishes of varying hues swam around like little angels all the time. There was continuous music that often changed in pitch and tune and tempo like wind on the palms, and the waves danced in rhythm. Certain types of sea life emitted light and kept darkness away. Everybody inside the castle was happy and cheerful and loved each other.

Now the Palace made a picture in the mind – clear, like a photo. There couldn’t be a lovelier place, the girl thought.

“Amma, I want to come there,” Paru said.

“Of course you must.”

“Now. With you.”

“No Paru, only when Kadalamma calls.”

“When will she call?”

“When it’s time,” Amma explained. “After you grow up and have babies of your own.”

“You mean real babies? Not like Dolly?”

“Real babies.”

“But Amma, you’ll be very old by then, like grandma.”

“At Kadalamma’s place each one would be herself. Always.”

The girl thought for a while. “Okay,” she said. “But will you come again?”

“If Kadalamma permits. Now I have to go.”

By the time Paru awoke and scrambled up Amma was gone. After a moment of hesitation she raced to the water, thinking that she could follow her mother’s footprints, reach the Palace and be with her. But there were no marks on the wet sand to guide her. May be, Paru thought, Kadalamma had the waves erase Amma’s trail because it wasn’t the time yet. She had to stay back. She had to look after herself and her father. And, she had to grow up and have babies of her own. Real babies. Not like Dolly.

Paru looked at the last remnant of the sun for a moment and turned around to the long way home.
■




Tuesday, March 15, 2011

My family’s hearts are in Japan



A week back my mind was full of the sea and sailors and ships and pirates. I was planning a blog post on the Somali buccaneers. I was in the process of collecting data. Suddenly Somalia was out and it was all Japan as I sat down to watch the noon news on March 11.

As the pictures and news of the devastation ignited by the 8.9 earthquake flooded the screen, I was trying to think whether I knew anyone in Japan. Just one couple. Didn’t have their telephone numbers.

Then the shock hit me – my elder son. He is a Master Mariner. His ship carrying cargo from the US was due in Japan around that date. I rushed to the computer and checked his emails. Yes, his ship was due in Tokyo around the 10th.

My heart sank.

I knew that the communications systems would be in a mess but nevertheless contacted the shipping company’s Bombay branch. They promised to get back to me. Then almost a miracle happened. My daughter-in-law called from Cochin. As soon as she saw the TV news, she rang my son’s number on the ship in Tokyo and got through. She spoke to him. In the meantime the company also called back to say that the ship was safe.

Same evening we had an email from my son stating that they were unloading cargo when the earthquake hit. “… suddenly the whole ship started shaking very violently. I ran out on deck and saw that the trucks on the jetty were shaking also and I knew it was an earthquake. A building quite close to the ship caught fire and we could see huge clouds of smoke.”

Then the Tsunami came. As the escalating ravage continued on an incredible level as shown on TV, the stress on us increased. Later we learned that the ship was moved out to the anchorage. When the conditions were better they berthed again and discharged the goods.

This morning the ship sailed out of Tokyo.  

We were lucky to have been in contact with our son. Still the anxiety was tremendous. But there was always the hope, the faith, the belief that the Almighty would take care.

I can’t help thinking of the millions who are facing similar situation. There must be so many Japanese working in other countries while their families are staying back home. And people from many nations are in Japan, away from their dear ones. Many of them may not be able to contact their family. Then there are injured and the sick.

Those who believe in God please pray for them.